Sunday, October 16, 2011
2011 Trip to the Alps
Introduction and Forward
In 2007, my bride of 45 years, Margaret, and I took a barge cruise down the Rhone River in France. The cruise was marked by wonderful lazy days on the deck, bridge in the salon and more food than ever be passed under the nose of a human being. In addition, there were old cruising friends, new arrivals, more food and wine, a German crew and the worst Air France Airlines strike in recent history. The long and short of the story was that we spent four days and nights either standing in a queue or fighting off the hordes to get a seat on a shuttle bus to take us to our hotel which was a different hotel than where we slept the night before. I was just a little passed PO'd during these four days and nights. So when I got home I canceled a reservation to join a motorcycle tour in the following year. In stead, I put together a ride where we touched all four geographic corners of the US. (I hate to beg forgiveness this early in the writing, but the format of Blogspot does not allow me to expand the photos so you can see the detail of some of the photos. This is especially true of the route maps.)
Also on the team was a new riding partner that was a friend of Stu Schippereit, Steve Sena. Steve is the brother of Mike Sena who was and is a member of the spook world and was buddies with Stu when he was in the analytical side of the business. Steve and Stu struck it off, as did their wives. The two couples have traveled extensively together and are close friends. Steve was one of the children of parents who worked around the world in the employ of the US Diplomatic Corps. Steve followed with a career in the State Department.
The last member of the team is my very good friend and fellow Marine F-4 pilot, Dick Ward. Dick and I have been friends for more years than I can recall clearly. We had a long chunk of years when we were out of touch due to careers and geographic separations. It was motorcycle riding that brought us back in touch again. Dick rode with Rex and I to the Arctic Circle in 2010.
It is with regret but with equal pride that I report Dick was unable to make the Alps trip because of a promise he made to a favorite niece, long ago, to attend her wedding. Turns out the Alps Trip and the wedding overlapped and Dick cheerfully kept his promise without the slightest hesitation or reservation. He was sorely missed. This action speaks well of the man under the bear's claws.
After I had cooled down, mildly, over a period of a year or more, I began to get the wander lust again but wanted to include the wives this time, if possible.
I have heard stories all my life about the beauty and majesty of the European Alps. The skiing, hiking, beer drinking, food eating and visual master pieces. During my career in the Marine Corps, my career, like most career Marine Corps officers centered around deployments to the far east. So for most Marines, Europe is not a place where you would normally be deployed unless you were the member of an embassy detachment. So my idea of seeing the Alps from the back of a motorcycle was very appealing.
What can we say about the Alps. First the name, in English, is derived from Latin via French and in the singular means "alpine pasture" but in the plural it suggests the entire mountain range. The mountain range sits like a huge fish hook laying down over the top of Italy with the pointed end hanging low just not quite making it to the Mediterranean . The range starts in Slovenia in the east then passes through Austria, Italy, Switzerland, Lichtenstein, and Germany and France in the west. The highest peak, Mt. Blanc, is over 15,000 feet high and is in the western section of the Alps.
The mountains are, at once, physically beautiful and an imposing monument to a creator's gift of wonder and excitement to all lucky enough to be blanketed in its visual majesty. They also serve as a testament to the forced humility of the human race when confronted with the majesty of something that is so overpowering in its existence that awe is the only human tool left to give them a name suitable to their basic character...The Alps.
If you look at the northern border of Italy, you will soon discover that this line that separates Italy from France, Switzerland, Austria and Slovenia is as complex an undertaking as one could imagine. For the most part these national borders follow the ridge lines of mountains that are part of the Alps chain of mountains. For most of its journey, this border meanders through country side that is both remote and of questionable value with respect to mineral assets and the tourist industry. But, without question, if there was a vehicle that could travel this border the riders of this very special vehicle would be exposed to some of the most beautiful vistas any place on the planet.
I made contact with a motorcycle touring company in Germany called Adelweiss Bike Tours. The folks there were very friendly. We began negotiations on how we would include the wives in February of 2010 and I have some sixty emails that trace those negotiations. The original plan called for six couples: The Fitch's, Sena's, Schippereit's, Ward's, Decker's and Davis'. Frank and Christa Davis, a couple who lives here in Cedar Creek dropped out due to concerns of safety by Christa. Several months later Rex dropped out due to competing trips in their car club, if I remember correctly. Then Dick and Chris had to cancel because of his niece's wedding, described earlier above. Ultimately, my wife, Margaret, believed that the mountain driving on so many turns and switchbacks would keep her permanently ill from motion sickness and she did not see that as a good time.
So now it is just myself, the Sena's and Schippereit's.
Every time someone dropped out, I had to go back to Edelweiss and renegotiate the terms of our agreement. This was a pain to say the least, but the company maintained our price per person and adjusted the guided tour and some routing, but kept the same hotels and food plans. This was damn good for showing up with less than half of what we started with in the plan.
The first picture is what it looks like uncropped. The second is cropped.
This link is a grouping of scenes from the trip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=141V0OT-fwg
This link is a grouping of floral scenes from the trip: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=soXl8sMVUhE
The camera does present some unique challenges that I have not had in the past and these issues will have a significant impact on how I construct this journal. First, I discovered, after the fact, that each time I remove the battery from the device and put in a fresh one, the date returns to 1/1/2007. This makes using the "Date Taken" data of the file impossible and so I can not reference a date on a picture to help me identify where I was when I took the pic. Second, videos are too large to put in this document, so I will need to upload the videos to a site and put a link in this journal so that it can be viewed at your discretion. Finally, and most disappointing, the quality and quantity of riding we did mixed with the language difficulties made it impossible for me to establish a personal contact with people so that we could share common strings of historical experience. This journal will be almost completely void of those kinds of stories.
There is a caveat I would like to make. There will be lots of pictures of beautiful mountain scenes. There was some thing that drew my attention to the vision and consequently take a photo. Some will just be boring to you and there is nothing I can do to change that.
Day 1
I have been packed for a week so the arrival of the 29th of June came none to soon for me. The Schippereit's and Sena's have been Europe for days now so I will be playing catch up for jet lag.
Threw all my stuff in the Buick after I made sure that each bag did not weigh more than 23 Kilos (50 lbs). My initial worry was that all my riding gear that I had packed in an old Marine duffel bag would tip the 23K limit. It did not, so I would only be paying $50 for the second bag. If either bag was over 50, then the second bag would cost me $150. Yes Sir, love those airlines.
Great weather day to start the trip and I was looking forward to spending a few hours with my daughter, Louise Truett, in Charlotte, NC where my flight originated and where I would be spending the night.
Any trip I take where I am doing the driving, car or bike, I am dogged by the results of two physical conditions that keep me from sleeping well. I am lucky to get five hours a night and, according to the quacks, very little of that is REM sleep. So...when I sit down and my body begins to relax, the brain tells the body that it needs sleep and forces me to go to sleep. When I say force, I mean just that. Sooner or later, without chemical intervention, I will go to sleep. As you might imagine, this is not a situation you want to happen on a motor cycle. Consequently, I have two prescription medications that I take to help me stay awake. I have trained myself, however, to recognize the onset of this symptom and simply pull off the road and walk around until my mind is awake before I resume my riding. Its a nagging thing that can make bike riding more hazardous than it already is. So I am very careful about how I feel before hitting the road.
With this said, the heightened excitement brought on by the newness of the trip and with the help of some chemical back up, I was not required to pull off the road even once on the entire trip. This included my car trips from Aiken to Charlotte and back.
The trip across the pond was a good as these things get. I get to grinding my enamel when I start thinking about airports, endless lines, TSA employees who are GED dropouts, endless lines, baggage claims, endless lines, custom's agents, finding a cab/van who drops you off at the sign for the hotel but the hotel is another block around the corner dragging 80 lbs of luggage.. It is a miracle of modern man that there are not daily killings and beatings in the passage ways of "modern" airports. Oh...and a 20 oz Coke is four dollars! If I want a Coke in Germany, it will be flat, warm with no ice available and whatever the Euro cost is, its 1.69 dollars for each Euro.
I arrive at the hotel at about 0900. The folks there are very nice and make arrangements to get me a room way ahead of when rooms are normally ready for occupancy.
The guides and the Schippereit's and Sena's drift in through out the day. I use this time to do a walk around the town of Erding, Germany. Let it be known, that Germany, Austria and Switzerland are three of the cleanest places I have ever been on the planet. This cleanliness and neatness make visiting their towns a real pleasure. I walked the streets and noted that there seemed to be a lot of activity in one of the town's squares. Venders were installing and/or opening their businesses for commerce and the commerce turned out to be food and beer. Good beer in big, tall glasses. The rest of the gang would return here to sample the fare later in the day.
As I mentioned earlier, the group got together in the afternoon and we all did a walk around the town center and stopped for some of the local beer called Erdinger. We saw this beer through out Germany and Austria. The dark wheat beer is my favorite. After beer, the ladies, Janet and Marianne, wanted to visit the church so we killed some time talking guy stuff until they returned then it was back to the hotel for the briefing.
After the briefing, the guys were taken downstairs to the garage and introduced to our bikes. We packed the saddle bags and I installed the remote off/on switch for my video camera and the power supply wiring for my heated clothing. This accomplished, it was back upstairs for a very nice dinner and some socializing with our guides Manuel and Nico. As time approached bed time, I excused myself and returned to the garage where I rode the bike around the garage weaving in and out of the concrete pillars. I did this for about a half and hour and was quite pleased with myself for taking the time to do this practicing. My self esteem was shattered the next morning when I discovered that the bike required about 2,000 rpm before you could begin to let the clutch out to start rolling from a dead stop. There was simply no torque at low rpm. This is the exact opposite of the performance of my GoldWing for which I have long established habit patterns. I must have stalled the bike some forty times through out the trip. I did not have a day when I did not kill the bike trying to start from a dead stop. In addition, my Wing has an automatic shutoff for the turn signal and the Triumph does not. I left the turn signal on so many times that Stu started calling me Blinky. In reply, I stopped using the turn signal. I never did fully adjust to the bike.
Day 2
As usual, I was first on the scene for breakfast because of my wacko sleeping habits. As I was finishing, Manuel, then Steve, and finally Stu joined me for breakfast. The ladies were a few minutes behind them.
The anticipation of the upcoming ride made everyone excited and full of energy to start our journey, but sustenance first with
humor and collegial story telling.
With our tummies more than happy, we begin a process that we will repeat for nine days: After breakfast return to room and finish packing, tooth brushing and final act of the morning constitutional. Slep the bags to the lobby for pick up by Nico, the ladies guide. Meet in the garage for gear and equipment checks. Start and warm the bikes and meet Manuel outside. Today will be just a little on the brisk side so we dress accordingly. I don't know about Steve and Stu, but I was a little apprehensive about this first day because I did not want to make a mistake and look like an amateur. I have tens of thousands of miles and thousands of hours riding a motorcycle but this was in front of someone who was a professional and I was from a distant country known for its economic and military power, it's ability to trend set and do things no other country in the world had accomplished. I know it sounds silly, but I, in some weird way, represented our country and I did not want to let the US down. I know, what a dweeb! In the Corps, we used to say, "If you showed your ass, it was better to die than to look bad."
So as our guide started out of the parking lot, we had to go around the end of wooden gate guard. There was barely enough room to get the bike clear. If you view the video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hR1u5SLMJDc you will see that Steve stalled his bike when he started forward and so did Stu. I started smoothly forward passed through the gate and then smartly stalled the bike twice before I reached the street. What a cluster and embarrassment. Lucky for me, all three riders were well down the block and did not see me stall and I did not have to commit Supuku. It matters little, because before the trip was over Stu and Steve were betting to see if I could go a day without stalling the bike. I never did !
The first hour or so was nothing more than getting better acquainted with the bike and then trying to figure out which vehicle was going to turn off of a traffic circle and which one was to keep going where it had the right of the right of way and where a collision was possible. With one bike, it is not that bad. With four it was always sketchy unless there was no traffic at all.
Among a population of inbred rulers of Europe and Russia, Ludwig II of Bavaria stands out, slightly. He became the King of Bavaria at the tender age of 18. He was a lover of music and art, all the works of Wagner the composer, castles and other men. He never married or had an heir so he remained a lonely and enigmatic ruler. He once said of himself..."I wish to remain an eternal enigma to myself and to others." I think it is clear that he got his wish.
It had been a long and uptight day for me. The kind I really love, but I was tired, so I excused myself and headed off to the arms of Morpheus. I left my window open to use the cool air and almost could not get to sleep for the sounds of tens of cow bells all around the hotel. These bells are not your cheesy cow bell in the states, these are works of art. Some big as a cantaloupe. Most tuned to a different musical note so they can be recognized by the song they sing.
Twas a glorious day!
Here is the very edited video of this day. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hR1u5SLMJDc
Here are several more:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgSL9ZVruL4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TTVKumzhec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40UcKAnI-Jc
Day 3
Then the health conscious table was king. Five different kinds of whole grain cereals plus some granola types with dried fruits and nuts in them; skim and 2% milk; assorted nuts; four or five kinds of fresh fruit; yogurt of every kind, color, fruit infused, regular, low fat, no fat; eight different regions of Bavaria represented in eight different kinds of honey from eight different flowers; two dozen different kinds of tea, no coffee except at the table, but there were lattes, espresso, and every other kind of solid caffeine with either steamed milk or whipped cream on top; three or four different kinds of sliced bread and bagels for the those who like toast; so many ramekins of jellies, preserves, marmalades, real butter and the other stuff that my saliva glands are now bone dry.
That is just breakfast.
I could not undergo the gastric distress that would consume me if I tried to do the lunches, coffee stops and suppers. Suffice it to say that the Germans, Swiss, Austrians and Italians know how to eat. Credit where credit is due.
When breakfast was finished and our bags were in the lobby, Manuel conducted our route briefing which was sort of a company requirement and we all had our maps out and pretended that we understood the route. Well, I guess we understood the route, what we, or least I, did not do was follow the route while we were riding. There was just too much to do and see to be comparing where we were going to what Manuel briefed in the morning. In this briefing, however, Manuel gave us a nice story that pointed to a piece of history for which I had no knowledge.
William Tell was known as an expert shot with the crossbow. In his time, the Habsburg emperors of Austria were seeking to dominate the state of Uri. Herman Gessler, the newly appointed Austrian Vogt of Altdorf, raised a pole in the village's central square, hung his hat on top of it, and demanded that all the townsfolk bow before the hat as they passed the pole. When Tell passed by the hat without bowing to it, and he was arrested. As punishment, he was forced to shoot an apple off the head of his son, Walter; otherwise, both would be executed. Tell was promised freedom if he successfully made the shot. On 18 November 1307, Tell split an apple on his son's head with a bolt from his crossbow. Gessler noticed that before the shot, Tell had removed two crossbow bolts from his quiver, not one. After the shot, Gessler asked him why. Tell replied that if he had killed his son, he would have used the second bolt on Gessler. Gessler was angered, and had Tell bound. He was brought to Gessler's ship to be taken to his castle. As a storm broke on Lake Lucerne, the soldiers were afraid that their boat would capsize, and unbound Tell, asking him to steer. Tell made use of the opportunity to escape.
Tell went by land to Küssnacht, and when Gessler arrived, Tell assassinated him, shooting him with his crossbow as he passed along a narrow stretch of the road. Tell's defiance sparked a rebellion, in which he played a leading part. The struggle eventually led to the formation of the Swiss Confederation. Altdorf must be in southern Switzerland.
Bottom line, Tell is a real Swiss hero with a huge monument in Altdorf.
It is with this history lesson that we wind our way down the labyrinth of hallways and steps that lead to a 90 degree landing with more steps leading into the dark. That's another thing about Europe. They have this thing about energy conservation. It's hard to tell if its a green thing or a green money thing. My guess is the latter. I say this because the hotel that has 40 watt florescent lamps that will only turn on when you insert your room key card in a slot just inside the door but has huge electric motors running multiple ski lifts just behind the hotel is doing what? Another thing. Since you must take the room entry card and remove it from the slot inside the room when you leave the room, all the lights go out and the electrical plugs go dead so you can not recharge batteries unless you are in the room. This was not the case in every room but in many. It was a pain.
I am joined by Steve in our search for the door that leads to the garage and we finally find it by accident. In the garage, its same thing with the lights, already. No lights unless something is moving in the garage. So while we are trying to get dressed in our gear, the lights go out and we have to find the motion sensor switch and use it several times before we get out of the garage. Manuel is waiting on the gravel parking lot and I pull up next to him. I lean over to listen to what he is saying and when I sit back up, my right foot goes smartly out from under my leg and me and the bike make a slow descent to the ground. I do a quick tuck and roll to reduce the embarrassment of dropping the bike. We both went down so slowly that nothing is scratched or damaged. Well...my ego is bent to hell and back. Looking bad in front of Manuel was not cool.
The route below was from Warth, Switzerland to Brunnen, Switzerland.
The ride, like every day, was challenging, beautiful and laced with moments of euphoria and states of relaxation that I do not get when I am not on two wheels. That state, I am guessing, can only be accessed via illegal drugs in another community. We proceed mostly west and then south after we cross into the smallest country in Europe which is Liechtenstein. We take a coffee break at the capital, Vaduz and are lucky to catch a free car show of locally owned vintage automobiles. The collage nearby gives you an idea of what was on display.
The square/mall was replete with outdoor dining and we grabbed a table for four and relaxed with our coffee for a few minutes before we returned to the bikes.
Some highlights...at point J on the map is the town of Walenstadt which is located at the east end of Lake Walen or Walensee. There were some terrific vistas on the ride along the lake.
We are working our way south west to visit the William Tell monument in Altdorf. We spend some picture taking time and then head almost due north. This ride along the eastern shore of Lake Lucern was visually stimulating and our hotel was located at the eastern edge of Lake Lucern and you look right down the leg that heads due west.
The view from the bar, the restaurant and the deck, built right over the water, is breath taking.
Close by are the edited videos of the days riding.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DgSL9ZVruL4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8TTVKumzhec
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40UcKAnI-Jc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8xy-HAcZkI
The riding highlight of this day. There is a lot of free range grazing of cattle in the mountains and they represent a minor hazard to vehicular traffic of all kinds. At one point, we came across a herd of cattle on the road and two of the cows seemed to be playing by butting heads and swinging their heads so that they made contact with their necks. Because of their size, all of this activity appeared to happening in slow motion and it did not look like there was any attempt to cause harm to one another..
The point of interest here was the Gold Wing with two up that passed us and intended to weave his way through the cattle on the road. As we watched, one cow took an interest in the motorcycle and began to move toward the couple. The rider and drive were both kicking at the simple beast to make it go away. For about ten to fifteen seconds, it was like watching a Keystone Cops movie. I have no idea how the driver of the bike kept it up on two wheels as the cow quickly lost interest in the game and meandered off the road. While this was going on, Manuel yelled back at me not to mess with cattle. I assured him I had desire to mess with over a thousand pounds of beef.
As you can see from the picture above the road makes a climbing right turn and within about a half a mile we were entertained with the following vista.
We have just traversed the valley below and are climbing up this range to get through the pass that is to your left as you view the picture.
We finished the day at the Seehotel Waldstatterhof. It is with a heavy heart that I admit that all the pictures I took of the hotel, Lake Lucern, my fellow travelers and the breakfast on the following day were lost when I tried to copy them from the camera to my laptop. I have no clue how, why or anything else. When I clicked Copy, there was screen flash and the files were gone. However the one below shows how beautiful it was on the deck of the hotel having dinner as the guest of Lake Lucern just as the sun was setting behind Stu. Thanks to our wait staff for taking the picture with Stu's camera.
This seems like a good place to take a break because this file is now over 75 megabytes in size and is becoming a little sketchy to work with. As the disk jockeys used to say on the radio, "See ya on the flip side". Go to article entitled 2011 Alps Trip Journal Part II.
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